That’s right, it fired up!  I primed it for four, 15 second periods on the starter without the coil plugged in.  When I plugged the coil in, it fired almost immediately!  Sadly, it died just as quickly; apparently, the fuel pump run signal isn’t being supplied to the fuel pump relay.  Whether that’s due to the PCM not receiving the optispark signal or the oil pressure switch isn’t telling the PCM that there is oil pressure, I’m not sure.   Information is not clear as to what drives the signal.  Regardless, I jumpered the relay and the fuel pump spun no problem, and the engine ran for at least 15 minutes.  Oil pressure was higher than the gauge could measure, and coolant temperature never seemed to move from zero, however both gauge needles were removed during the rebuild, so their accuracy is in doubt.  I’ve since verified both sensor and gauges electrically.  Also, the oil pressure was expected to be high, since I am using a high volume oil pump.  I may or may not go with an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.  (I love gauges, but right now I need it on the road.)  Also, although the thermostat at least started to open (180F Tstat for the break in), the fans never came on (set at 176).  That may be due to the wrong connector for the water pump temperature sensor being used (I have two of them, for no apparent reason), or it may be a PCM problem, or it may be that I didn’t install fuses in the fan lines.  I need to check all of the above.

Unfortunately, right around the time the thermostat opened, the radiator to water pump suction hose ruptured.  This is the one that had to be reduced from 2.5 to 2.25 inches; I did it incorrectly, and had to pay the price.  The spray caught me pretty bad on my left elbow, but it caught my dad right in the face.  He’s doing much better now, although I still feel pretty responsible for it.  He says not to worry, but I am my own worst critic.

I’ve replaced the joint with a better reducer.  I’ve also changed the oil and run a fused wire from a switched, 12V source to the supply side of the fuel pump relay.  I also found a small fuel leak from the pressure regulator that was possibly causing the drop in fuel pressure after priming that I saw (I hope it’s the only contributor).  The regulator will go back on tonight, and I’ll fire it up a second time.

During this run, I’m going to check manifold vacuum at idle, and then check that the coolant temp, oil pressure, and fan operation responds accordingly as the engine heats up.  I’m got a pair of Fluke meters standing by to measure RPM and radiator temperature, so I should be good there.   If all that is good, I’ll jack up the back end of the truck and test out the clutch and transmission.  If that goes well, I’ll take her for a spin!  Then I have to put the hood on and drive it to my new house, so I can drive it immediately to the exhaust shop tomorrow after work.

Then I have to move EVERYTHING to the new house–spare parts, tools, the old engine and spare transmission…you know, everything!


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